Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
The White Hart at Fyfield is a fine example of the great, good fortune we Oxfordshire residents have when it comes to eating out. Long recognised as one of our county’s gastronomic destinations, the pub – a former Chantry house, lovingly restored by owners Kay and Mark Chandler (front of house and head of kitchen) – has held two AA rosettes for 19 years. In addition to these have been a slew of awards and commendations including a glowing inclusion in the Michelin Guide last year plus any number of local prizes. This January it was named One to Watch in the 2025 Estrella Damm’s Top 50 Gastropubs and since then, it’s also been named one of the Good Food Guide’s 50 Best Sunday Roasts and Best Gastropub in the Southeast by online site, Corporate Livewire.
Although I can imagine the White Hart is an unforgettable place to go on a romantic date with its cosily elegant interior and intimate tables by the huge fireplace or in the Minstrel’s Gallery, I went to check out it out with a friend after having spent a week at home on ‘nursing-duty’ for my significant other. All that self-sacrifice had left me feeling in need of a little nurturing myself and The White Hart was just what the doctor ordered. So, too, was the discovery of their cocktail menu which is rapidly gaining mixologist Freddie Swain a reputation as something of an alchemist of alcohol. (Scroll down for a link to one of his recipes).
If a pre-dinner cocktail is designed to tantalise the palette, the White Hart have got this very, very right. Reading through the options was mouthwatering enough but when our choices arrived, our bouches were more than amuse-d. The tequila-based Chicory and Chili Paloma with its vegetal herbaceous flavour notes has a kick to snap your tastebuds into action, and the rum infused Spiced Carrot Cake Cooler magically combines warm cinnamon-scented nuttiness with icy-fresh carrot and ginger. What both revealed was a great balance of contrast, which boded well as we placed the order for our food.
Again, the breadth of choice was spoiling and demanded our full attention. Across the menu there are some familiar ‘pubby’ favourites, albeit served with a twist, alongside some truly innovative dishes. I think we ordered well: citrus cured sea trout and nduja Scotch egg to start, followed by the pub’s famed slow-cooked belly of Kelmscott pork and the roasted hispi cabbage for mains.
The sea trout was positively zippy with its accompaniments of torched grapefruit, picked cucumber ribbons and a memorable hollowed out cube of cucumber, filled with swicy horseradish cream and topped with capers. Bang, bang, bang: absolutely yummy. The Scotch egg was piquant and crisp in its meaty casing around a jammy yolk. A crisped sliver of salty chorizo and a drizzle of grassy olive oil added punch to the unctuosity. We hastily ordered homemade breads to allow full and lascivious mopping of plates.
By this point, we’d moved onto the wine list, eventually deciding on the (excellent) house white after briefly considering the ‘Mindful Drinking’ options – no or low alcohol – and noting with pleasure the inclusion of four different dessert wines. But before pud, the mains. First up, that pork. No surprises that the White Hart is lauded for this dish: it is spectacular. Treating the eyes first, with its magnificent spear of crackling sitting atop a huge roll of meltingly-soft meat; then the nose as the rich cider jus proffers up its fruity notes; and finally the mouth with flavoursome pork, tender potato and tart, cooked apple. Luckily for me, my pal was generous in forking up tasters for me and equally luckily for me, my choice of roasted hispi cabbage was stunning. All buttery, sweet cabbage served with a duo of peanut-focused sauces; a bed of thick romesco sauce (think molten peanut butter made savoury with garlic, pepper, tomato, spice and seasoning), and a dollop of green gremolata. The real hero of the dish, though, was the crispy rice cakes which were more like compacted arancini than those dry bitty things you get in a packet from the supermarket.
I must now admit to gluttony: despite the fact I’ve managed to stuff in two glorious courses, duty impels me to confess to ordering dessert. In this case, though, the shame is lessened because I defy anyone to resist the prospect of a dish described as ‘Blood orange and vanilla cheesecake, macaron, blood orange arctic roll, doughnut’. What? All four? Really? Yes. Take my advice, maybe get this to share. Then again, maybe don’t. The plate has two more than bite-sized piece of cheesecake and artic roll (a welcome shout out to 70s cuisine!) but only one each of the macaron and the doughnut and believe me, you won’t want to share these. The baked pistachio custard (served with Tunisian cake, rosewater gel, yoghurt sorbet) may have sounded like the more modest choice but it was similarly indulgent.
What more can I say? The cheeses looked spectacular; when the Chateaubriand was delivered to the table next to ours I almost changed our order; the antipasti, I reckon, will be outstanding on a summery evening while sitting outside in the garden or the orangery with time to explore the cocktail list more fully; the Sunday lunch sounds phenomenal; and browsing the website tells me that throughout the week there are regular dinner clubs, fish and chip nights, tasting menu events and happy hours. The White Hart at Fyfield is patently dedicated to excellence and run (and staffed) by people who are passionate about great food and drink and good times. It champions local, strives to sustainability and even welcomes dogs. Perfection.
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Owners of the White Hart at Fyfield, Mark and Kay Chandler, have kindly shared a recipe for one of their modern British classics:
Yoghurt Panna Cotta, Ginger Rhubarb, Honey Oat Crumble
Serves 4
Ingredients
Panna Cotta:
500g Natural yoghurt
100g Double cream
150g Caster sugar
4 Gelatine leaves
Ginger Rhubarb:
500g Rhubarb, washed and cut into one-inch pieces
50g Caster sugar
50g Stem ginger (in syrup), finely chopped
2 tbsp Ginger syrup
Splash of water
Garnish:
Handful of oats
Squeeze of honey
Method
To make the panna cotta: Soak the gelatine leaves, as per the instructions. Heat the sugar and cream in a pan until just boiling, then remove from the heat and stir in the gelatine. Mix in the yoghurt and pour into glasses. Put in the fridge to set (minimum one hour).
To make the ginger rhubarb: In a saucepan, add the rhubarb, sugar and water. Stir and place on a medium heat. Add the ginger and the ginger syrup and stir again. Simmer for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is soft but retains its shape. Let the mixture go cold.
To make the oat topping: Mix together the honey and the oats and bake in a 180C oven for 12 minutes, until golden.
To serve: Spoon the rhubarb on to the top of the panna cotta and finish with the oat topping.
It doesn’t get much more British than everyone’s favourite sweetie, the rhubarb and custard. This dessert pairs perfectly with the White Hart’s take on the classic; rhubarb and custard sour cocktail. Check out the recipe by following this link.
