Oxfordshire and its surrounds are famous for outstanding food and hospitality: from farms, growers and markets to cafes, pubs and restaurants. We are delighted to have the chance to feature some of the very best.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s branch in Bicester Village opened earlier this summer, bringing the famous chef’s delectable Mediterranean-slash-Middle Eastern dishes to the hordes of shoppers thronging the main drag at the famous shopping destination. We were invited along for the launch night which involved far too many cocktails to admit to (all of which had been transformed by judicious use of herbs and spices to give them the signature Ottolenghi flavour notes) and plate after glorious plate of feast-worthy food redolent in the deliciously moreish/Moorish flavours for which Ottolenghi has become so very well known.
The restaurant itself is a bright, cheerful space decorated with distinctive, colourful ceramics hanging on whitewashed walls. It provides a welcome respite from the crowds and queues outside, but if the urge to spend hasn’t been totally quenched, there is plenty on offer to tempt you within the deli/shop. Towering platters of take-out food (including the fattest, most seductive meringues we’ve ever seen) are on offer alongside signature spice mixes, chutneys, oils, vinegars, a selection of pottery and other tableware.
Plus, of course, Ottolenghi’s extensive book collection. The latest of which, Comfort, came out in September and draws on memories of childhood and travel, woven throughout over 100 favourite recipes from Yotam and his team. We were spoiled for choice when it came to selecting one to share but this potato salad from Verena Lochmuller, the Development Chef in Ottolenghi’s test kitchen, has everything we want from an autumnal dish, namely the three p’s: potato, paprika, pancetta (although this can be left out for a veggie-friendly option).
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Verena’s Potato Salad
Serves 4
“Growing up in Germany, Verena remembers two camps when it came to potato salad: camp mayo and camp oil/broth. This is an oil/broth-based version, more prevalent in the southern parts of Germany, specifically Swabia and Bavaria. It’s less heavy and claggy than the mayo variety and gets its creaminess from the starch released by the potatoes as they sit for a couple of hours in the warm broth. We’ve strayed from tradition and added some pancetta (because, why not…) and a welcome freshness from some chopped cucumber.”
500g Pink Fir or Charlotte (or other waxy) potatoes
75ml olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped (125g)
1 garlic clove, crushed
175ml chicken stock
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
½ tsp black peppercorns, coarsely
crushed in a pestle and mortar
15g chives of which10g finely chopped and 5g to be cut into 1½cm lengths
75g pack of diced smoked pancetta
1 tsp paprika
¼ cucumber, sliced lengthways, deseeded and cut into ½cm dice (100g)
salt
Put the potatoes into a medium saucepan, for which you have a lid. Add just enough water to cover, salt generously and place on medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for 20–25 minutes, until just tender. Drain and, once cool enough to handle, remove the skins from the potatoes and slice into ½cm-thick rounds. Set aside in a medium bowl.
Put two tablespoons of the oil into a medium sauté pan and place on a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 12–15 minutes, stirring regularly, until caramelised. Add the garlic and stock, bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat. Add the mustard, vinegar, 1¼ teaspoons of salt, the pepper and another two tablespoons of oil. Whisk to combine, then pour the mixture over the potatoes. Mix gently but thoroughly: it will look wet (and some of the potatoes will break up), but this is normal. Set aside for about two hours, for the potatoes to soak up about half the broth, and then stir in the finely chopped chives.
Meanwhile, wipe clean the sauté pan and place on a medium-high heat. Add the pancetta, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10–12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper – leave about one tablespoon of the fat in the pan – and set aside. Once cool, finely chop the pancetta into crumbs.
Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the fat in the pan, along with the paprika. Stir for 30 seconds or so, until fragrant, then remove from the heat.
When ready to serve, fold the cucumber into the potato salad and transfer to a serving plate. Scatter over the pancetta crumbs, along with the cut chives. Spoon over the paprika oil and serve.
Recipe from Ottolenghi COMFORT, by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press, September 2024). Now available from all good booksellers.
Ottolenghi at Bicester Village also offers a full catering service across Oxfordshire and the Cotswolds. From intimate dining to opulent extravaganzas, whether you’re after a celebration cake, a working brunch, a private dinner or stylish canapes for a special event, the team are on hand to create the perfect menu. Savoury or sweet, food can be delivered or if you’re planning something on a larger scale, the service can also include wait staff and bartenders to make the experience even more memorable. Additionally, Ottolenghi works with local florists and can even help source your venue. Tastings can be arranged at the restaurant and more information can be found at ottolenghi.co.uk.
