Since The Store opened on the former site of Boswells it has become my go-to place to meet friends. Squishy velvet sofas, friendly staff, delicious coffee and a relaxed yet luxurious vibe (re-luxed?). There’s also always the possibility of spotting an A-lister amongst the mix of glamorous guests and locals hanging out in the lounge or slipping through to retreat down to the spa. I’ve also cocktailed on the roof (those views!) and dined at Treadwell, the hotel’s modern British restaurant, so I didn’t need asking twice if I would like to go along to review the new Spring menu.
What both Treadwell and The Store do exceptionally well is create ambience. On a Friday night the well-lit restaurant was buzzing, tables filled with groups and couples, clearly here for the good times. I was with old friends from school, one local, one visiting Oxford for the weekend. We only get together every few years and it is very much cherished when it happens – I include this detail so that you can appreciate just how special an occasion it was, and how much I felt was riding on my choice of venue. Readers, it did not disappoint.
We were welcomed to our table and soon settled in with a bottle of the excellent house white (Chenin Blanc). In retrospect, we should have started with a celebratory Veuve Cliquot or even Hundred Hills; both of which can be ordered by the glass. We could also have spent more time perusing the well-chosen wine list more closely, but what can I say? We were there for the good times, too: there was too much to catch up on to spend time deliberating between a Gavi, a Puglian Primitivo or an organic Rose. Instead we turned our attention to the menu.
Each of the starters sounded tempting and so we elected to choose three and share, which – with the generous portions provided – proved no hardship. Kimchi and Cheese Croquettes sounded slightly unlikely but was a surprising (to us) success. Crispy outside, molten (but not scorching) in the middle – “I could eat ten of these alone” – the sour notes cutting through the creamy interior to enhance the tangy cheesy flavour. The Tuna Tartare served up on an avocado puree infused with ponzu, black garlic and truffle oil converted my raw fish naysayer bestie in one bite. Meltingly soft, fresh fish balanced against smoky, seductive warmth with morsels of deep-fried shallots for added crunch; it was deemed perhaps the perfect starter. That is, until our attention turned to the Crispy Lamb Belly which I have to confess had each of us licking our knives and then fighting to run our fingers around the plate to scoop up every scrap of the harissa yoghurt sauce. Served alongside an apple and fennel slaw and dotted with pink pickled onions it was an exemplar of the four pillars necessary for culinary success: salt, fat, acid, heat.
There’s a very convivial atmosphere in the restaurant and when our mains arrived we were eager to continue sharing and so our dishes were placed in the middle of the table, and side plates provided without us having to ask. I should say at this point that, throughout the evening, our glasses were topped up, tap water was brought and conversation was enjoyed with the wait staff who were utterly delightful. Attentive without being intrusive.
Although there are veget-and-pescatarian options on the menu – including a magnificent-sounding Harissa Braised Cauliflower, The Store’s ale-battered fish and chips and Tuna Steak from the Grill menu – carnivores are spoiled for choice at Treadwell. For mains we went full meat. Fillet steak Tagliata, heaped on its plate in juicy pink slices on mounds of rocket and seasoned with shavings of parmesan and the punch of chimichurri sauce, served up with a decadent slab of toasted garlic bread. The Steak Frites was equally flavoursome, marinated in thyme and garlic and topped with a perfect quenelle of miso onion butter melting into the beef. Our third dish was a superlative Pork Schnitzel presented on a faultless soubise sauce and generously topped with capers, sliced black olive and chunks of fresh tomato. Mum, if you’re reading, I know you’re the schnitzel queen, but this was a strong contender for the crown.
It was around this point that a second bottle of wine was ordered and so perhaps this explains why I can’t remember who ordered the extra side of hot umami-rich truffle fries but it was a sterling move.
Almost, but not quite defeated, we finished the meal with one pud – Eton Mess – and three spoons. Here tradition has been deconstructed to perfection. A rich white chocolate panna cotta with all the indulgence of sweetened condensed milk plus marinated and freeze-dried strawberries and shards of meringue. The next morning as I was coming to consciousness, I found myself reflecting on just how a dish comprising of three such sweet things (panna cotta + strawberry + meringue) could have been so expertly balanced. Yes, it was sweet – it was a dessert, after all – but there is clearly significant expertise in that kitchen as it could so easily have swerved into sickly but instead remained memorable and delicious. The perfect end to a pretty perfect night.
Book your table to discover the Spring menu at Treadwell for yourself treadwellrestaurant.co.uk
