If you live in Oxfordshire and are interested in wine, I’ll bet you can name one or two of the local vineyards; or possibly even three or four. But did you know there are now 15 commercial vineyards/wineries in Oxfordshire producing wine? And how many of those wines have you tried recently? That’s why I wrote Oxfordshire Uncorked, to bring together all the local vineyards, profile the wines they offer, and provide practical information for visitors.
English wine is experiencing huge growth. The 2023 harvest produced 21 million bottles in England, an increase of 60% on the previous record of 13 million bottles in 2018. There are now over 1,000 vineyards in Britain although not all make their own wine, many grow fruit only and then sell it to wineries that make their own. Even Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons is planning to plant a vineyard of its own in the near future.
What’s fuelling the huge growth? There’s no doubt that the increase in UK temperatures makes ripening grapes to optimum levels far easier than forty years ago, and increases in sunshine hours have helped too. But that’s only half the story; growing expertise in the country has enabled winemakers to manage their vines more effectively and to make better wines; on top of this are economic factors as farmers seek to grow crops that will return more profit than, for example, traditional cereal crops.
Champagne Houses and other international winemakers have bought vineyards in England to futureproof themselves against rising temperatures in France and elsewhere. And English wines now regularly win awards and medals in international wine competitions.
Many of the vineyards in Oxfordshire are featured in my new book, Oxfordshire Uncorked. I’ve aimed to feature all local vineyards with commercially available wines that you can purchase, and I’ve included a few others close to the borders in Gloucestershire, Buckinghamshire and Berkshire. Most are open to the public and positively welcome visitors on tours and tastings and other events. Selling directly to customers is more profitable for the producers and can also be a more enjoyable experience for customers.
There’s a large cluster of vineyards in the Southern Chiltern hills, just north of Henley on Thames. The well-drained, chalky soils and sub-100m slopes are ideal for growing wine grapes. And like the larger wineries in Kent and Sussex, most of these Chiltern vineyards concentrate on producing quality sparkling wines, usually from the same grape varieties that are used in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.
Producers here include Oaken Grove and Chiltern Valley who are extremely well equipped to host visitors and where you can spend a few magical hours trying wines, touring the premises and having lunch too. Both produce still and sparkling wines, but always check opening times before travelling – most of Oxfordshire’s vineyards are run by hard-working couples with very few staff, and sometimes vineyards close for weddings or other events too. Oaken Grove regularly hosts Jazz nights.
Also around Henley is Wyfold, owned by Barbara Laithwaite, producing outstanding sparkling wines which are made at son, Henry Laithwaite’s Harrow & Hope winery in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Adopting a very similar model is Kidmore organic vineyard at Kidmore End which is so new that its top-quality sparkling wines have not yet been released for sale; you may have to wait until 2027 to purchase them.
JoJo’s vineyard, also in the cluster north of Henley, is recent too – established in 2019 and with sparkling wines yet to be released. But their still white Bacchus/Seyval Blanc blend is available online and in outlets in Henley. It’s a delicious, refreshing and subtle white wine. Meanwhile, Fairmile vineyard, within walking distance of Henley train station, produces fantastic sparkling wines only and regularly hosts birthday and Hen parties.
Moving clockwise around Oxfordshire, Brightwell Vineyard near Wallingford is one of the longer-established vineyards in the region. Bob Nielsen makes the wines on-site and makes a really interesting variety of still red and white wines in different styles. Prices are very reasonable, I recommend trying their excellent, award-winning 2018 red Pinot Noir whilst it’s still available. Brightwell wines are sold in some local Waitroses and the Oxford Wine Co.
Hendred Vineyard, near Wantage, is another long-established vineyard, first planted in 1972. Still and sparkling wines are made, and all production sells out each year. Local volunteers help with each year’s harvest.
In West Oxfordshire, Bridewell Gardens, a mental health recovery charity at Wilcote, produces a refreshing, organic, Brut sparkling wine, available at Eynsham Cellars. Nearby, between Minster Lovell and Leafield, is Freedom of the Press winery where Gavin Carver makes exceptional still white and red wines which reflect his love of Burgundy. Visits in winter are by appointment only. Wines can be found at the Oxford Wine Co, and the excellent, new Tipsy Palace in Woodstock. A surprising amount is exported to Norway.
Daw’s Hill vineyard, nestled in the Chilterns at Radnage, eight miles from Thame, is actually over the border in Buckinghamshire. But Holly Morgan produces excellent, traditional-method sparkling wines there and regularly hosts events such as sushi-making or wine-blending. She relies heavily on volunteers especially at harvest time. Holly even makes a really interesting sparkling cider by the same method, and she sells nearly all her wines directly to customers onsite or at markets.
STOCKISTS
Oxfordshire Uncorked provides extensive information on stockists. However, to get started, here are some reliable ones;
Eynsham Cellars - A good range of English wines including Freedom of the Press and Bridewell
Oxford Wine Co - Shops in Oxford and Standlake, selling Brightwell and Freedom of the Press
Pavilion Foods, Henley - Good sparkling wine selection including Harrow & Hope, Fairmile and Hundred Hills as well as Freedom of the Press
Millets Farm - Wines include Brightwell and Hendred; good selection of local ales
Upcoming Events
September/October – Most vineyards harvest the grapes in October. Many, including Hendred and Daws Hill, rely on local volunteers to help and reward them with lunch and wine. Check out your local vineyard’s website and social media
Saturday 5 October – Witney Wine Festival
Saturday 26 October – Sushi & Wine Experience at Daws Hill
6-8 December – Christmas Wreath making at Oaken Grove
For more information visit oxfordshireuncorked.co.uk.
